The second day of our trip ended with me starting to feel crummy, with the same thing Terry had a day before, and the beginning of the third day was a travel day through Maasailand. We passed bomas, the fenced-in villages of the Maasai, and went through one especially colorful town that was having a market day. (On the way back we stopped at a boma, and I’ll have a story about that, plus photos.) By the time we got to Kirirumu Tented Lodge, I was so grateful for a bed to lie down on that I waved the others away for an afternoon of driving through Lake Manyara National Park while I slept.
(Click on photos to enlarge.)
This camp has what is called permanent tents; ours had a concrete floor, raised from the ground, but with tented walls and ceiling. Every tent we stayed in was enormous, had real beds with nice linens and cozy blankets, and every single one had full, working bathrooms with running water, including hot water. We were instructed to zip the doors completely, and to stay in our tents at night unless escorted by the guards, in this case Maasai warriors.
At this point, I didn’t care about anything except having a bottle of water, a cover to pull over my fevered body, and a nearby washroom. I slept most of the afternoon, too dizzy to stand, while the others saw lions in trees, elephants, and loads of other wonderful things. By the time they got back to the lodge I was feeling better, and it was time for a shower.
A note on showers: at every initial arrival to the various lodges, farms and camps we were greeted with glasses of fresh juice and moist, sometimes hot, towels with which to wash our faces and hands. The roads are so dusty, and it was shocking how dirty we were every night, just from sitting in the vehicle all day long. We really learned to appreciate the welcoming hot shower at the end of every travel day, with a cocktail hour afterwards.
Dinner was always a leisurely event, beginning with a delicious soup, then the main course, and the inevitable dessert. Alcoholic drinks were not included in our tour package, but they were usually inexpensive, compared to American prices.
Since this part of Africa is so close to the equator the day begins at around 6:15 AM and ends exactly 12 hours later, 365 days a year. Zepha, our guide, told me “Swahili time” begins at daybreak, which corresponds to our midnight. So 7:15 AM is 1 o’clock to those who still keep track this way. 4:15 AM would be 22 o’clock, if I understood correctly.
Zepha taught us a few Swahili phrases to use during the trip, but I’m afraid we were mostly bad students. I did write down some of them, though: Hakuna matata, of course, meaning “no worries”. Asante sana, one of the most often used phrases in this very polite country: “thank you very much”. One of our group favorites was one that Zepha used frequently: Haraka haraka, Haiana baraka, meaning “hurry, hurry; no blessing”, or “haste makes waste”, as we would say it. Poli poli means “slowly”, which we saw a few times on signs exhorting drivers not to speed. My personal favorites took a bit longer to learn: lala salama, “sleep well”, and harabi se asobuyi, “good morning”. In the photo of the Kirirumu reception area above you’ll notice “Karibu”. That means “welcome”, as well as “you’re welcome”, and we heard and said that one a lot during the course of the trip.
Feeling a bit better the next day, I was ready to go to Lake Manyara with the group. We got there very early, hoping to spot wildlife before others frightened them into the bush, or before it got too hot. Zepha kept looking out the window at the dirt road, and I finally realized he was looking for elephant tracks. We eventually found a fairly large herd of them, and while our vehicle was stopped they surrounded us. It was one of those breathtaking moments, just one of many we had on the trip, but I’ll never forget the first time we found ourselves among the herd. I missed the tiny baby elephant that was there when we first spotted this group. Zepha thought it could not be more than three or four days old, but Kim, who had a better viewing angle than I did, was thrilled to see it. The adults surrounded it very quickly, though, and ushered it safely out of our sight within just a minute or so. As long as we were quiet, and stayed inside the safari vehicle (which was required, for most places we went), the animals did not feel threatened and so we were safe. One elephant decided to make sure we stayed put, and trumpeted at us, which was pretty thrilling. They crossed in front of our vehicle to a dandy place to mud bathe on the other side of the road.
Definitely a “hakuna matata” moment.
At this park the big feature is Lake Manyara, a magnificent alkaline lake that covers many square miles (about 77 at peak depth) and is host to a variety of bird life. We went to the far side of the park, to an area where hot springs flow into the lake. Many animals come here to feed and to drink, and we saw Cape buffaloes, zebra, striped mongoose, ostrich, and lots of shorebirds. Steve and Terry had a ball taking photos here, with no real barriers to the animals, one of the few times they were able to photograph outside the safari vehicle.
We returned to Kirirumu early enough that we could take a birding walk with Zepha. The staff at this lodge is very friendly, and since they live close by, part of our walk passed some of their family homes. One young woman invited us to visit her home, so we accepted the invitation. Rebecca’s husband is a waiter at the lodge, and they have two small children. Their house is an ongoing project, added to as finances allow, but a fine addition to the village. It is made of bricks manufactured locally, and has a dirt floor and flap doors, but very clean. Rebecca offered us two treats while we were there: tiny, sweet bananas, and chunks of sugarcane to chew. The peels and sugarcane debris were tossed to the floor, to be cleared afterwards. We sat on comfortable couches and upholstered chairs, and a couple of neighbors came in to see what the heck was going on. At dinner later Rebecca’s husband was speechless to learn we’d visited his home. I got the idea that most tourists didn’t visit that part of the area, not even for birdwatching.
Staff at every lodge hefted our luggage to our rooms for us, and hauled it back and onto the top of the safari vehicle when we left. Sometimes we ended up making great friends with staff, although I did not always get photos of them. At this lodge, Terry and the Maasai guards/porters ended up having way too much fun together, but it was tremendously entertaining.
The managers of the dining room at this lodge were especially fun, and we enjoyed our meals there. The food was great, but the staff made everything better. I’ve seen online reviews of Kirirumu that made it sound as though other places were preferable, but more on that in later posts. I definitely disagree.
Our next destination: the great Serengeti, with lots of wildlife drama. Stay tuned.
We began our two-week journey to Tanzania from our home in Cincinnati, where we took a plane to Boston, then changed to an overnight flight to Amsterdam. (The least said about trying to sleep on a crowded plane, the better.) After a too-short time in Holland–a country we both would like to see someday–we boarded one more plane for a nine-hour flight to Kilimanjaro Airport, outside of Arusha, Tanzania.
Arriving at Kilimanjaro after dark, we were met by our guide, Zepha Mofulu, and the operator of Flash Safaris, Magda Vrijs, who bundled us into the safari vehicle and whisked us off to Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge at the foot of Mount Meru, where we would stay the next two nights. Our companions, Kim and Terry from San Diego, had been there for 24 hours already, and they waited for us to arrive to have dinner.
(Click on any photo to enlarge.)
The staff served us in a lovely dining room, starting with homemade soup, which we came to learn would be the beginning of every evening meal. Since Steve and I both love soup, that made us very happy. The meal was quite good, but we soon needed to drift to our room, as jetlag was taking hold, and we would need to be up early enough to have breakfast and get on the road to Arusha National Park with Zepha. Our room was lovely. We had a sitting room, bedroom, and an enormous bath, complete with private water closet, dressing room, and a huge tub. We didn’t have much time to enjoy it, or even take photos, since we pretty much crashed that first night.
The lodge has a lot of history. It was built in 1905, originally as a defensible homestead and outpost for the family of a German named August Leuer. He bought the property 20 years previously, when he originally went to East Africa as part of a military expedition. He grew coffee and other crops here, and developed an ingenious water turbine and other innovations, still in use today, which make the operation largely self-sustaining. You can find more information and photos on their website: Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge The second owner of the lodge, Mike Leach, is still in residence, as are some members of his family. They are gracious hosts, willing to share information about the history of the place, the animals that live there, and the philosophy behind their sustainability policy. And they make darned fine coffee.
Our first day of safari took us to Arusha National Park, one of the smallest of all the national parks in Tanzania, but home to some of its most colorful wildlife. We were fortunate enough to see a colony of colobus monkeys, high in trees above us, on a quiet road. We sat beneath them for quite awhile, watching as they tended each other. Kim is an aviculturist with the San Diego Sea World, and she was overjoyed to see the hundreds of thousands of flamingos in Lake Momella. The lake was, literally, rimmed with a solid line of pink from all the birds settled along the edges. Flamingos travel from lake to lake in search of food, and we were quite fortunate to catch them when they were here.
We saw a large number of baboons here, which are quite frankly an assault on the sense of smell. I could tell they were present by their musky odor during the entire trip. This area had the most of anyplace we visited, and we were able to see them quite close, as they were on both sides of our stopped vehicle. I took a bunch of closeups of one male baboon but it wasn’t until I looked at the photos here at home that I realized they were most definitely X-rated.
One of my favorite sightings of the whole trip was in this area, where we saw dozens of giraffes feeding, resting, and just standing around. They are such amazing animals. Seeing them rise to their feet from a seated position, or lowering into one, fascinated me. Our guide told us they cannot let their heads go sideways, as their necks are not strong enough to lift them again. They eat mainly the leaves of acacia trees, stripping them from the thorny twigs with their black tongues.
There were lots more animals here, including zebras, Cape buffalo, warthogs and lots of birds, but I ended up coming down with something (which I later realized was a reaction to the anti-malarial drug we were taking) and could barely take it all in, let alone photograph them. We did see one of the most memorable birds of the whole trip here–among the more than 230 species of birds we saw in the 12 days–the cinnamon-chested bee-eater . I could never get a photo of one, although Steve and Terry both did. We saw other species of bee-eaters, as well, including the little bee-eater, and the European bee-eater. Birdwatching in Tanzania was grand fun, and such a treat for the four of us; there are close to 1,400 species of birds there, and our guide was an avid birder who was brilliant at spotting new species for us. The weaver nests in the photo of the park gate above were just a tiny sampling of the thousands we saw. Tanzania has some forty species of weaver, each making a uniquely different type of nest, so nearly every type of terrain hosted at least one kind of weaver bird.
After two nights in Ngare Sero we piled into the vehicle and headed out for the drive to the Manyara National Park area. On the way we passed colorfully dressed Maasai people, including children as young as age six, herding cows, goats and donkeys. Some of the animals were quite close to the road, as were these goats. We could also see Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru along the way, looming above the plains in the great Rift Valley. The landscape changed here, from hilly, with red clay soil, to flat, dry and incredibly dusty.
Our next stop, Kirirumu Manyara Lodge, where we would stay in our first tented camp.
Watch for Part II of our adventures, coming soon.
Well, I had big plans to tour the US in a self-contained vehicle, but then something kind of wonderful happened. My husband invited me to join him for a two-week trip to Northern Tanzania this October. Also, a perfect vehicle had appeared, but since the dealership sold it before I could get my financing together, I decided to let that sit for awhile and concentrate on preparing to travel to Africa.
So we left on October 7th, and had a fabulous 12-day photo/wildlife/birdwatching safari. We joined friends from San Diego, the Petersons, and shared a guide who drove us all over six parks in Tanzania: Arusha National Park, Manyara National Park, Central Serengeti, Northern Serengeti, Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and Tarangire National Park. We spent two nights each in an assortment of lodges and tented camps, always with hot water, toilets in the rooms/tents, and with real beds, plus amazing food and service. I’ve never eaten so much or been cared for so well.
Along the way we stopped at a Maasai boma and danced with the Maasai, saw a lion stalk and kill a zebra, watched lions mate (not especially exciting, FYI), and saw an unbelievable number of animals in the Great Migration.
I’ll share photos soon, after I’ve caught up, and after I’ve sifted through nearly 850 photos.
Steve and me, with our guide’s safari vehicle, where we had hours of “African massage” (road jolts) daily for 12 days.
That’s pretty much what I should have named this blog: Have Friends, Will Travel. Most of my family and friends know that I’m up for a road trip (or a plane trip) at the drop of a suitcase. That’s a good thing!
My friend Welmoed and me
Last month, my youngest daughter Holly invited me to join her in Washington, DC. She was attending her first professional conference on her own, and she had an extra bed in her hotel room. DC is an eight-hour drive from here, and I love our nation’s capitol. And I love my daughter! There is always a good reason to see both.
The drive is not long, but it can be arduous, since the only way there is through mountains, no matter which route is chosen. At some times of the year the mountains can be treacherous, either from icy conditions, or from poor visibility from heavy snow or from fog. I got lucky this time. Even though it was February, temps were mild, and the snow on my way home, while steady, was light and the roads never got slick.
Since Holly’s husband is in the military, and currently stationed in Afghanistan, she was able to book a room at the Navy Lodge, which is part of the Walter Reed National Military Medical Center complex in Bethesda. The Medical Center is situated along a main road opposite the campus of the National Institutes of Health, with a convenient and busy Metro station in between. The hospital is also known as the Bethesda Naval Hospital, and it’s where Presidents are generally treated medically during their time in office. Ronald Reagan was operated on there, and John F. Kennedy’s body was flown there for an autopsy after his assassination. Little known fact: Presidents pay for treatment out of their own pockets at this facility. Nancy Reagan had a mastectomy here, for the breast cancer discovered while she was First Lady.
Needless to say, security is very tight at this complex. We were required to submit our drivers’ licenses and other information to use the facility, plus show ID to get back in when we left. The Walter Reed Medical Center is one of the largest medical complexes in the United States, covering more than 113 acres.
The Navy Lodge here is only one of many that the US Navy operates, largely for families visiting military personnel being treated at the facility, or for military families in the process of moving to a new post. There are Navy Lodges operating in sixteen states in the US, and in three additional countries: Italy, Spain, and Japan. We heard many languages spoken in the lobby of the hotel, since military personnel from other countries are also treated here. A group of Georgian (formerly part of Russia) soldiers with amputated limbs were staying there while we were there.
Before I left for DC I posted a request on Facebook, asking if any friends in that area would like to meet up while I was there. A longtime, online friend, Welmoed answered the call enthusiastically. Welmoed lives north of the city, and she picked me up at the Metro station near her home. Welmoed and I were both educators for a wonderful patterndrafting software company, Wild Ginger, but we had only seen one another in person a couple of times before. However, sewing folk like us, who have communicated online for around 15 years, always have something to talk about!
We had debated going to a museum, but I wanted most to see Welmoed’s fabulous home, Redwall, which she has talked about in a forum we both frequent. Redwall sits on six acres smack in the middle of a suburb of McMansions, a holdout from the clutches of a developer. It’s a brick Arts & Crafts style home, with too many features to count, really. But how many homes do you see with a cloister? The one at Redwall provides shelter from the weather between the main house and the garage, plus Welmoed’s wonderful sewing studio. One other outstanding feature at Redwall: it’s guarded by a large metal sculpture, an actual, fire-breathing dragon.
After the house tour, we drove to a local foodivore place for lunch, Founding Farmers. Too bad they don’t have locations outside the DC area; the food was fantastic–fresh, vibrant, and abundant. Neither of us could resist the basket of homemade potato chips, truly the best I’ve ever had. They also handmake fresh syrups for their drinks, which are also delicious.
Both of us well-fed and ready to get a little exercise, Welmoed, a great tour director and host, then drove us to Great Falls National Park, on the Great Falls of the Potomac. The Potomac River, as it drops 77 feet in less than a mile to sea level, is forced through the narrow and rocky Mather Gorge. The dramatic rush of the water can be seen easily because of well-placed walkways over the various parts of the falls. It’s possible, if the water isn’t over the walkways, to saunter clear to the widest part of the river, through interesting hardwood forests, full of moss-covered boulders. Welmoed told me the woods are full of wildflowers in the spring. We kept hoping to see the locally nesting eagles, too, but no such luck. We did see a lot of turkey vultures, which are plentiful in the park.
On the other side of the river you can see the rocky cliffs on the Virginia side rising out of the rushing water. Seven people a year drown in the Potomac here, and while we were standing there two people on the Virginia side were inching their way down, illegally and foolishly. Alcohol may have been involved.
The other interesting feature about the park is the Patowmack Canal, which was once known as the “Great Falls Skirting Canal”. Back in the day, the only way to navigate the Potomac all the way to the sea would have been the canal and its lock system. The canal was begun in 1785, and it took seventeen difficult years to complete. Black powder blasting, little used before the formation of this canal, was utilized to forge a passageway through the solid rock. Today, part of the canal is visible, and the park maintains a boat of the type that would have traversed the canal long ago.
Even though I was only in the area for a couple of days, I got to see and do quite a bit. Holly and I had dinner at several wonderful restaurants, and we made a quick trip to the National Portrait Gallery, which is part of the Smithsonian. Did you know that the Smithsonian Institute manages the world’s largest museum and research complex, with 19 museums, 9 research centers and more than 140 affiliate museums around the world? And admission is mostly free, except for the Cooper-Hewitt Museum in New York City (which is closed at the moment). The National Zoo is part of this complex, as well. The National Portrait Gallery houses portraits of those who have shaped the United States into what it is today, from Presidents to poets, and in between. Next time I visit I’d like to see more of this museum. It’s huge, and we only got to see a small part of it. The woman at the desk told us, and I couldn’t verify this for sure, that all the artists represented in the museum were American. That’s pretty cool, if it’s true. Certainly, all the people portrayed in the paintings are or were American.
My visit to Washington, DC was way too short, especially my time with Holly. But her conference experience was a success, and we had a fun time together.
Next adventure, coming soon!
Well, maybe not. They had a hangar full of shiny new conveyances, some with their own means of power, and some meant to be hauled behind another vehicle (usually a truck). But it was fun to look at them.
The trailer pictured in the photo above was small and light, but still too big to drag behind my Honda Civic. I would have to have a larger vehicle, and one with a trailer hitch. One other thing I realized about the trailers, even the small ones is that they cannot simply be unhitched when one wants to leave them at a campsite or other location. If you look at the back of the trailer you’ll see one of the stabilizers at each corner; these have to be set individually so the trailer doesn’t tip when you unhitch it. I imagine it would not work too well once you’re inside the thing if that’s not done, as well. Could be way too much funhouse for my taste! There are also some very cute, very small such trailers, which are basically an enclosed bed on wheels, with a camp kitchen on the back end. That’s just a bit too small for me.
Somehow, I can’t see myself sleeping in that trailer, by myself. The potential for easy entry by an intruder seems far too great.
There are some really cool, converted “toy haulers” that looked like an option. (Toy haulers are for hauling motorcycles, 4X4′s, go-carts, and other, well, toys.) But doesn’t this look a bit claustrophobic, with no windows? It’s shiny and pretty, but I can’t see this particular trailer as being very comfortable, especially in either the heat or the cold.
So onward to more contained units, including the kind that propels itself. A friend who travels extensively in an RV with her husband recommended that I look at the kind they have, but I have not yet been able to see a Lazy Dazey RV in person. They are based on a van body, with the trailer wrapping over the top of the van cab, for additional room. This was the closest thing I saw at the RV show.
If I can’t find a Roadtrek somewhere, this type would be a nice option, although it’s still larger than I want, and taller, which would make it more difficult to park on a residential street. There are some nice features in this type of RV, though, including a roll-out awning for al fresco dining and relaxing. They have pretty big water tanks, too, and a generator for cooking, heating/AC, and for using TV, radio, and Internet.
It is possible to find RV’s that are as large, or larger, than many actual homes. I’ve seen two-story motorhomes, with incredibly fancy interiors, with leather recliner/sofas, and giant flat-screen LCD TV’s, and gourmet kitchens with granite countertops. They are amazingly deluxe, but massive. It would be more like driving a bus than a passenger vehicle.
The side walls of the RV expand outward in order to provide so much room inside. It’s actually quite ingenious, all the different ways they use that feature to expand the interior. Entire kitchen walls or dining areas or seating areas slide into and out of the center aisles to create the illusion of vast space.
It really would be possible to live in one of these. As long as you like the color brown. Every single RV or trailer I have seen so far has some version of a brown color scheme. I guess it is so dirt doesn’t show–I mean, who wants to have to work so hard to keep what is essentially a vacation vehicle clean? But still. It depresses me. Dark blue or dark green, or even burgundy would be just as nice, in my opinion.
So the quest continues. But for the first leg of my journey, coming up soon, I’ll just be getting in the Civic and heading out. More to come!
My goal for this upcoming journey has several parts:
- See parts of the US that I’ve never seen before.
- Visit friends and family, including Internet friends who I’ve never met face-to-face.
- The ability to meander wherever I want, regardless of the availability of hotels, or other places to sleep.
- Safety first.
At the same time, I don’t want to spend a fortune–on lodging, gas, or food–to achieve these goals, and I would also like to be able to maintain a healthy lifestyle while on each part of the trip. How to manage this?
Enter the small RV. Chevy makes a wonderful small recreational vehicle called a Roadtrek. It is basically a conversion van, and includes a tiny but functional kitchen area, comparatively roomy living quarters, and one of the nicest RV bathroom facilities I’ve seen.
I think the middle size, 19-feet long, will do just fine for my purposes. It’s just a foot or two longer than most vans, has a nice long wheelbase (for stability), is not so tall that crosswinds will make it unstable, and the gas mileage is not horrible. Also, because it’s a Chevy and has a gasoline motor, any issues that crop up along the journey can be fixed at most repair shops or dealers. I understand that diesel motorhomes can cause nightmares in the case of a breakdown. Truck stops usually have places to repair diesel engines, but I have heard of one person who was stuck at a truck stop waiting for a repair for nearly a week. Not my idea of fun.
These vans include all the comforts of home: queen-sized bed, plus additional sleeping arrangements; air-conditioning and heating (propane tank); good-sized water tanks, both for fresh and dirty water; tiny refrigerator, two-burner propane stove, prep sink, and microwave; marine toilet, tiny sink, and both a handheld shower, plus an “in-aisle” drain with privacy door for a full-sized shower; Bluetooth; satellite radio; GPS; and built-in flatscreen TV. In addition, there is a dining table, full-sized mirror, and plenty of storage. What more could a girl need?
My challenge now is to find one of these gems! For my first trip (of several, I hope), I’d like to rent one. This will allow me to test the waters, and to see if what I think the benefits actually are.
More to come. Stay tuned!
My name is Karen, and I’m getting ready to embark on a grand adventure. I hope you’ll join me, as I learn more about the United States, up close and personal. I’ve traveled to 49 of the 50 states, all except Alaska, but can’t say I’ve really experienced all of them. Ohio is my home, and I feel there is plenty I can still learn and enjoy about our 88 counties, let alone the rest of the country.
A couple of years ago I was driving from my home in Cincinnati to Florida, straight down I-75, as usual. Typically, I would leave early in the morning of the first travel day and try to make it to somewhere south of Atlanta, spend the night, and then drive on. This time, though, I had stuff going on the night before and didn’t sleep well, so was unable to really get going until a bit late, and I decided to stop near Chattanooga to rest up for the rest of the drive.
The next morning my daughter Robin called, and I told her where I was. She said “Mom! Chattanooga is one of my very favorite cities! You really should go into town and check it out.” After I checked out of the motel I used Robin’s directions to find the row of museums along the river bluff (not yet open, that early in the day), and then to cross the Tennessee River over to the North Shore, an area along the riverfront with shops and restaurants and bars. How could I have driven up and down I-75 for more than 40 years without once stopping in such a great place? I’m ashamed of myself, for having missed this, and so many other, amazing places.
That trip was a revelation. I spent the rest of the time traveling a bit sideways to the beaten path, and began the first tentative steps to the odyssey on which I now am planning to embark, to expand on the idea of that first trip, and to travel the width and breadth of the US.
I am fortunate to have lots of family and friends flung all over the country, and I plan to visit some of them (and you) on this voyage of discovery. This blog will serve as my diary, first for planning the means and the path, and then to the journey itself. My motto: You learn something new every day–if you pay attention!